# RKS: IS BEING FAIR ... REALLY LOVELY - Tone Or Tanning? (II)

 

# RKS: IS BEING FAIR ... REALLY LOVELY

TONE OR TANNING? (II)

RKS / 2024-2025 / Ser 5 / Blog 3

1st July 2024                                    

DISSECTING FAIRNESS CREAMS

THE DAWN OF SKIN BRIGHTENING CREAMS ERA

Dear Reader,

Tanning is essentially the skin's response to increased melanin production after exposure to sunlight, creating a darkening effect. Skin tone, on the other hand, is the surface skin color which is determined by a dynamic genetic mechanism.

Fig: World regions and distribution of skin tone.

Since South-east Asia and Africa host significant clusters of people with a darker skin hue, the population of these countries always desire for a fairer skin so as to be able to integrate better with the rest of the world where towards all the migration occurs.

The surge in the Indian cosmetic market size of USD 8 bn (₹ ~64,000 crore) is mainly accounted by products that intend to modify skin tone. The global cosmetic market is USD 375 bn but India’s share is mere 2% and growing at 3% annually (CAGR).

SKIN COMPLEXION

From Fair Complexion to Deep Complexion, different types of skin tones reflect not only our genetic heritage but also the impact of environmental factors.

Fig: Various complexions of skin.

1. FAIR COMPLEXION: Fair complexion refers to skin that is light and often burns easily in the sun. People with fair complexions typically have less melanin, resulting in a lighter skin tone. LIGHT COMPLEXION refers to skin that is slightly darker than fair skin but still falls within the fair range. This complexion type may also be prone to sunburn.
2. MEDIUM COMPLEXION: Medium complexion describes skin that has a moderate level of melanin, resulting in a tan or olive skin tone. People with medium complexions usually have a balance between fair and deep skin tones.
3. OLIVE COMPLEXION: Olive complexion refers to skin that has a green or yellow undertone, giving it a warm and sun-kissed appearance. This complexion type is often found in individuals with Mediterranean or Middle Eastern backgrounds.
4. DEEP COMPLEXION: A deep complexion describes skin that is rich in melanin, resulting in a dark brown or black skin tone. People with deep complexions have a higher natural protection against the sun but can still experience sun damage.

The most significant ethnic skin color difference is determined not only by the melanin but also the hemoglobin in blood as well as the presence of carotenoids in skin.

SKIN TYPES

Skin can be of different types depending on its appearance.

Fig: Skin types.

There are 4 known skin types:

• OILY SKIN: If the skin appears shiny throughout, the likelihood is that one has an oily skin.
• DRY SKIN: If it feels tight and is flaky or scaly, then it is dry skin.
• COMBINATION SKIN: If the shine is only in the T-zone, one probably has a combination skin.
• NORMAL SKIN: If one feels that the skin is hydrated and comfortable, and not oily, it is a God-blessed normal skin.

The skin in the T-zone, which includes the forehead, chin and nose, is oilier than other areas.

Fig: T-zone.

In addition to the different skin types there can be present in select individuals a sensitive skin which means the skin is more prone to reactions such as redness and itching.

CAROTENES

Carotenes are orange, yellow and red pigments found largely in fruits, vegetables and dark green leafy vegetables. In humans, the highest concentration of carotenoids is found within adipocytes (fat cells) present in the fat-rich subcutaneous tissue (SC) that is present below the dermis of skin. 

Carotenoids also appear to contribute measurably and significantly to normal human skin color, in particular the appearance of “yellowness” as defined objectively by CR200 tristimulus b* values (using Colorimetry Research). This instrument (CR-100 & CR-200 Tristimulus Colourimeters) utilizes the Commission Internationale de l'Eclairage (CIE)2 L*a*b* color system to determine skin color objectively. 

Color is quantified using the 3-digit output L*a*b*: 

• L* measures skin reflectance or lightness - this is a grey scale with values from 0 to 100 where 0 is black and 100 is white; 
• a* measures the color saturation from red to green - the scale is from +60 to −60, where positive values indicate varying intensities of red; and
• b* measures the color saturation from yellow to blue - the scale is also from +60 to −60, where positive values indicate varying intensities of yellow.

Human skin contains carotenoids, such as α-, γ-, β-carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin, lycopene and their isomers, which serve as a protection against oxidation and free radical damage, besides giving the skin its tone. β-carotene and lycopene are the most plentiful carotenoids present in skin SC. 

Amongst the carotenoids, only α-carotene, β-carotene and β-cryptoxanthin (this in particular is not present in skin) can be converted to vitamin A and these are referred to as provitamin A carotenoids – the rest are nonprovitamin A carotenoids.

SKIN TONE

Tanning is one aspect and skin tone is a different perspective. If one tans easily but the skin rarely burns it means there is more melanin. On the other hand, if the skin doesn’t tan but burns easily it implies that the melanin is less and the colour is on account of one’s individual skin tone. 

There are 4 main types of skin tones:

1. Light
2. Fair
3. Medium
4. Dark (Deep)

Fig: Various skin tones.

The skin tone drives the choice of makeup cosmetics. Besides tone, there are terminologies like Skin Undertone as well as Skin Overtone and this also form the basis of choice of cosmetics.

SKIN UNDERTONE

The undertone could be described as the ‘invisible colouring’ that lies beneath the skin. This is the golden ticket to understanding the best temperature of colours that one can wear closest to their face and those hues that will look most harmonious with one's particular features and skin tone. Everyone’s undertone sits somewhere on the spectrum of cool (more blue) to warm (more yellow).

Fig: Determining skin undertone on basis of color wheel.

There are specific tests described to determine one's undertone. 

TESTS TO DETERMINE SKIN UNDERTONE

One of the least confusing test to determine the skin undertone is describing the veins on the wrists as either more purple/blue (cool) or green (warm). 

Fig: Vein test to determine skin undertone.

Another simple test to determine undertone of one's skin is holding up gold and silver jewellery next to the face. If gold jewellery gives a lift, one is warm. If silver is better, the individual is cool.

Fig: Gold jewellery test for skin undertone evaluation.

Depending on the evaluation, one can determine the type of makeup which suits one the best -if one is warm, it is preferable to eliminate all the colors on the cool side, and if one is cool, eliminate warm colors. 

TYPES OF SKIN UNDERTONE

Skin undertone can be:

• WARM UNDERTONE: Warm undertones are characterized by hues of yellow, peach or golden. People with warm undertones often have a natural warmth to their complexion and may tan easily in the sun.
• COOL UNDERTONE: Cool undertones are characterized by hues of pink, red or blue. People with cool undertones often have a fair or rosy complexion and may burn easily in the sun.
• NEUTRAL UNDERTONE: Neutral undertones are a balance between warm and cool undertones. People with neutral undertones have a mixture of hues in their complexion and can generally wear a wide range of colours.

Undertone might be described by cosmetics companies as ‘pink’ or ‘rose’ if it is cool and ‘yellow’ or ‘golden’ if it is warm. 

Fig: Skin undertone types.

The skin undertone is determined by melanin and carotene (gives skin a yellow hue) in or below (respectively) skin, as well as the hemoglobin content of red cells in blood. The skin thickness also determines the undertone.

SKIN OVERTONE

Overtone is what is visible to someone when one looks at a person, and it is the sum of all three of the individual's natural features: their eyes, hair and skin coloring. One's overtone colour can be similar or different to the undertone and both need to be considered when determining the personal colour direction.

Fig: Overtone determining - the two colours on the left, indicate lighter, cooler and more neutral overtones whereas the three colours on the right are darker and warmer.

One's undertone and overtone need to be taken into consideration whilst determining the swatch of colours that will be most congruent with one's specific choice of colouring. This will be important to help for making the best decisions when selecting colours for clothing and accessories. 

Overtone, in contrast to undertone, is visible. The overtone might look yellow, pink, brown or peachy and could be described as sand, beige, ivory, biscuit or ebony - all common foundation names. 

Fig: Cosmetic makeup foundation types.

Foundation forms in cosmetics:

1. Liquid: Base makeup and hydrates skin.
2. Serum: Latest craze and the drops can be mixed with moisturizers.
3. Tinted-oil: Ideal for ultra-dry skin.
4. Cream: Provides good coverage for dry and mature types of skin.
5. Stick: Popular category – all that is required is to put a dot and blend.
6. Powder: Super easy to apply and soaks up excess oil of skin.

The skin pigment is a determining factor for the overtone. The two main types of melanin are pheomelanin and eumelanin. Pheomelanin manifests itself in the form of reddish/yellowish tints, usually giving lighter skinned people freckles and the possibility of red hair. Eumelanin generally appears in brownish/blackish tints. So if a person has more eumelanin they tend to have much darker skin, whereas, if a person has less eumelanin they tend to have lighter skin.

FAIRNESS CREAMS FOR SKIN TONE?

The original skin colour cannot be changed. One can get a sunkissed glow by using a bronzer. A bronzer is generally used to create a tanned look and also for light contouring on the face. Bronzers add warmth and color to the face and it differs from the blush which is used to give the cheeks a naturally flushed effect. 

Fig: Sunkissed glow is 'warmth' added by bronzer.

Contrary to expectation, India does not feature as one of the 10 sunniest most countries in the world which are:

1. United States
2. Egypt
3. Sudan
4. Chad
5. South Africa
6. Niger
7. United Arab Republic
8. Madagascar
9. Kenya
10. Australia

Since sunlight causes more melanin production the skin tanning needs to be prevented by sunscreen creams. Only bleaching ‘fairness’ creams, which destroy melanocytes, can alter skin tone – but is it everyone’s desire?

CONCLUSIONS

In the current changing times, the new dictate is ‘light brown skin tone is most beautiful’ as per the study called “Shades of beauty”. Today, most dark females as well as males prefer their dark skin color whilst most light females and males prefer their own light skin color. In another survey, only 16% of children indicated inclination to change their skin color – 51% to a lighter and (surprisingly) 46% to a darker shade! 

The ‘Black Lives Matter (BLM)’ forum initiated by Global Network Foundation, Inc. is a global organization in the US, UK and Canada instituted in 2013. BLM is a decentralized political and social movement that seeks to highlight racism, discrimination as well as racial inequality experienced by black people besides promoting anti-racism, and the same has gathered more steam over the last decade. The movement is relevant in view of the documented globally changing skin tone to darker shades over the years.

Fig: Changing skin tone over years.

Tanning of skin can be prevented or reversed but there is no way one can ever change the tone of skin. Hence, there is sense in shifting from fairness creams to brightening creams which ensure glow, radiance, lively and a healthy skin. 

As per the study called “Shades of beauty”, the new dictate is ‘light brown skin tone is most beautiful’.  The same concept has given birth to a campaign called 'BIES' - Beautiful In Every Shade.

DR R K SANGHAVI

Prophesied Enabler

Experience & Expertise: Clinician & Healthcare Industry Adviser

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