# RKS: IS BEING FAIR ... REALLY LOVELY - Tanning Or Tone? (I)
# RKS: IS BEING FAIR ... REALLY LOVELY
TANNING OR TONE? (I)
DISSECTING FAIRNESS CREAMS
SKIN TANNING & COMBATING
Dear Reader,
The global ‘fairness’ products market is valued at USD 10 billion (₹ ~80,000 crore). The market in India is estimated to be worth nearly ₹ 5,000-10,000 crore and the average growth rate in the last two decades has been a healthy (sic) 20%. It is not only the Indians who are fanatic for looking ‘fairer’, the people of Nigeria and Ghana rule in this regard. This is evident from the list of top 5 countries whose population are frequent users of various fairness-related skin products globally.
Table: Country populace opting for skin color reducing by using various available agents - top 5 countries.
Although fairness of skin is most sought after by the Asians and Africans, the whole world clamours for products which are for either: (a) skin lightening; (b) skin whitening; or (c) skin bleaching.
SKIN LAYERS
The skin has a superficial epidermis and a deeper dermis layer. The color of the skin depends on the presence of a pigment called melanin. The epidermis comprises of 7 layers and the deepest is called ‘stratum basale’. Melanin-secreting melanocytes occupy 5-10% of this basal epidermal layer.
Fig: Skin layers & epidermal structure.
The melanocytes are uniformly distributed but their densities vary from 900 per mm2 on the back of the body to 1,500 per mm2 in the genital region. The melanocytes produce melanin from an amino acid called tyrosine with the help of an enzyme called tyrosinase and the skin color is defined depending on the amount of pigment present
UV RAYS
One of the most important factor that dictates the production of melanin is the sun rays. All of the energy from the Sun that reaches the Earth arrives as solar radiation and includes visible light, ultraviolet light, infrared, radio waves, X-rays and gamma rays. Radiation is one way to transfer heat.
Fig: Rays emitting from Sun and spectrum of visible light to human eyes.
It is the UV rays that induce melanin production and these are of 3 types:
- UV-C: most harmful for humans and completely absorbed by atmosphere.
- UV-B: potentially cancer-causing and 95% are blocked by the ozone layer present above the earth.
- UV-A: longest wavelength amongst the UV rays - between visible light and X-rays.
5% of the UV-B and all of the UV-A penetrate clouds and windows and reach the dermis of skin. They are most plentiful between 10 am and 4 pm and it is UV-B rays that initiate synthesis of ‘sunshine’ vitamin D in skin. There are 500 more UV-A rays as compared to UV-B and hence the former is more responsible for causing aging-related damage to skin. Both UV-A and UV-B can cause tanning and skin burns and melanin can block this only upto a point.
SKIN TYPES BASED ON TANNING
61% of people report tanning and the countries with people having the most tanned skin include Mexico, Honduras, Paraguay, Colombia, Argentina and Costa Rica.
Table: Skin types and tanning potential.
Since those with Skin Types V and VI tan profusely, the Asians, Africans and Latinos indulge more in ‘fairness creams’ or even bleaching products.
SKIN TONE
Tanning is one aspect and skin tone is a different perspective. If one tans easily but the skin rarely burns it means there is more melanin. On the other hand, if the skin doesn’t tan but burns easily it implies that the melanin is less and the colour, when not fair, is on account of one’s individual skin tone.
METHODS FOR COUNTERING SKIN TANNING
Do’s and Don’ts if tanning risk is to be minimized:
- Avoid the sun from 10 am until 2 pm, when UV rays are strongest.
- Avoid spending excessive time in the sun in one session. It is better to tan in shorter intervals, as a person may not appear burnt until they go inside.
- Regularly apply a broad spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30. Reapply after swimming or sweating, even if the sunscreen is water-resistant.
- Wear a hat and sunglasses with 99-100% UV-A and UV-B protection to protect the scalp and eyes.
Those with darker skin should note that they may not notice any changes in skin color.
It needs to be fathomed:
- Sand, snow and water all reflect the sun’s rays and increase the chances of sunburn even if people are in the shade.
- UV rays can penetrate clouds, so even if the sky looks dark, sunburn can still occur.
- Trees, umbrellas and canopies do not offer complete protection.
A useful tip is if a person can see their shadow, they may still be exposing themselves to UV light.
SUNSCREENS
Sunscreen, also known as sunblock cream, is a photoprotective topical (local application for skin) product that helps protect against tanning, sunburn and could even prevent skin cancer. Sunscreens of varying SPFs (Sun Protection Factor) are available to protect skin against sunburn and tanning induced by excessive exposure to UV rays. The SPF number indicates how long the sun's UV radiation would take to redden the skin when using the product exactly as directed versus the amount of time without any sunscreen. So ideally, with a SPF 30 sunscreen product it would take 30 times longer to burn than if one weren't protected with the same.
5% of UV-B radiation usually strikes the skin and can be a greater potential cause for cancer. Most sunscreens of SPF 15, 30, 50, 100 block 93%, 97%, 98% and 99% of UV-B respectively. So, doubling the SPF does not double the amount of protection one gets from sunscreen. Since UV-A also needs to be blocked, a broad spectrum sunscreen usage - effective against both UV-B as well as UV-A - must be ensured.
Melanin itself gives 13.5 SPF to darker skin and 4-5 SPF to lighter skin but this is inadequate - 90-93% & <90% protection against sunburn and tanning respectively. Hence, the Skin Cancer Foundation as well as American Academy of Dermatology recommend additional sunscreen application with 30 SPF cream bearing in mind that the benefit from higher using SPF strengths products is marginal. However, most people do not apply a thick enough layer, so their SPF 30 may be more like an SPF 20. It is thus recommended to use an SPF 50+ so that there is effective protection, even if one does not apply their sunscreen very well.
FAIRNESS CREAMS
The first fairness cream is said to date back to 1919. Created by entrepreneur E. S. Patanwala, it was called ‘Afghan Snow’ and named after King Zahir of Afghanistan who said the white cream reminded him of the snow in his country. According to the company’s website, the First Miss India concert in 1952 was sponsored by Afghan Snow. The product was also endorsed by actress Persis Khambhatta.
The first fairness cream is said to date back to 1919. Created by entrepreneur E. S. Patanwala, it was called ‘Afghan Snow’ and named after King Zahir of Afghanistan who said the white cream reminded him of the snow in his country. According to the company’s website, the First Miss India concert in 1952 was sponsored by Afghan Snow. The product was also endorsed by actress Persis Khambhatta.
In 1975, Fair & Lovely was launched by HUL, the Indian subsidiary of the multinational company Unilever, which became an instant success. Soon, other brands followed. Today, the fairness creams are categorized as:
- Skin Lightening products
- Skin Whitening products
- Skin Bleaching products
Skin lightening is required when the skin color becomes darker and uneven, as in those having localized pigmentation. Skin whitening is a combination of skin lightening and brightening techniques. Brightening helps rejuvenate the skin and regain the lost natural glow.
Skin bleaching refers to the use of products to lighten dark areas of the skin or achieve an overall lighter complexion.
In 1975, Fair & Lovely was launched by HUL, the Indian subsidiary of the multinational company Unilever, which became an instant success. Soon, other brands followed. Today, the fairness creams are categorized as:
- Skin Lightening products
- Skin Whitening products
- Skin Bleaching products
Skin lightening is required when the skin color becomes darker and uneven, as in those having localized pigmentation. Skin whitening is a combination of skin lightening and brightening techniques. Brightening helps rejuvenate the skin and regain the lost natural glow.
Skin bleaching refers to the use of products to lighten dark areas of the skin or achieve an overall lighter complexion.
SKIN LIGHTENING CREAMS
The process of using skin products that lighten dark spots and blemishes caused by hyperpigmentation is referred to as skin lightening. In essence, skin lightening evens the skin tone by focusing on areas of the skin that are discolored, like pigmentation patches, blemishes, aging-related spots, post-acne marks, sun-spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation. Flavonoids, specific vitamins (B3), omega-3 fatty acids, green tea extract, aloe vera gel, turmeric and many other natural ingredients are typically present in most skin lightening creams.
Skin lightening creams are also called Dark Spot Removers (DSR) or skin brightening products.
The process of using skin products that lighten dark spots and blemishes caused by hyperpigmentation is referred to as skin lightening. In essence, skin lightening evens the skin tone by focusing on areas of the skin that are discolored, like pigmentation patches, blemishes, aging-related spots, post-acne marks, sun-spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation. Flavonoids, specific vitamins (B3), omega-3 fatty acids, green tea extract, aloe vera gel, turmeric and many other natural ingredients are typically present in most skin lightening creams.
Skin lightening creams are also called Dark Spot Removers (DSR) or skin brightening products.
SKIN WHITENING CREAMS
For skin whitening the commonly incorporated ingredients are glutathione, arbutin, azelaic acid, kojic acid, liquorice and mulberry extracts. Most skin lightening natural ingredients, as well as those present in whitening creams, inhibit tyrosinase so as to block melanogenesis (melanin manufacturing). Arbutin and kojoic acid are the strongest tyrosinase inhibitors.
For skin whitening the commonly incorporated ingredients are glutathione, arbutin, azelaic acid, kojic acid, liquorice and mulberry extracts. Most skin lightening natural ingredients, as well as those present in whitening creams, inhibit tyrosinase so as to block melanogenesis (melanin manufacturing). Arbutin and kojoic acid are the strongest tyrosinase inhibitors.
SKIN BLEACHING CREAMS
Skin bleaching products intend to change one's natural color of skin. These creams contain mainly hydroquinone which acts by destroying melanocytes such that the production of melanin is itself cut off. Some products even incorporate the popularly known to be side effect-prone corticosteroids.
Chemical peels, laser therapy and dermabration are the other options for achieving skin bleaching.
Skin bleaching products intend to change one's natural color of skin. These creams contain mainly hydroquinone which acts by destroying melanocytes such that the production of melanin is itself cut off. Some products even incorporate the popularly known to be side effect-prone corticosteroids.
Chemical peels, laser therapy and dermabration are the other options for achieving skin bleaching.
CONCLUSIONS
The current focus has shifted from fairness to having a more healthy and glowing skin with an improved texture. Melanin is not a curse but a blessing to dark skinned people. Skin cancers are 20 times more prevalent in those white-skinned since they have a weaker protective shield of melanin. As a result, in recent times, the emphasis of fairness creams has shifted to brightening, glow, radiance and anti-dullness products with a resultant 3% decline in market share of skin whitening and bleaching brands.
Fairness creams usage, in all fairness, should be restricted to only eliminating localized hyperpigmentation, dark spots or an uneven skin tone with skin lightening products incorporating natural and safe ingredients.
Also, it is recommended to always prefer skin brightening rather than whitening creams.
The current focus has shifted from fairness to having a more healthy and glowing skin with an improved texture. Melanin is not a curse but a blessing to dark skinned people. Skin cancers are 20 times more prevalent in those white-skinned since they have a weaker protective shield of melanin. As a result, in recent times, the emphasis of fairness creams has shifted to brightening, glow, radiance and anti-dullness products with a resultant 3% decline in market share of skin whitening and bleaching brands.
Fairness creams usage, in all fairness, should be restricted to only eliminating localized hyperpigmentation, dark spots or an uneven skin tone with skin lightening products incorporating natural and safe ingredients.
Also, it is recommended to always prefer skin brightening rather than whitening creams.
DR R K SANGHAVI
Prophesied Enabler
Experience & Expertise: Clinician & Healthcare Industry Adviser
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